// DEFINE TIP OBJECT
function tip(title,intro,text)
	{this.title = title; this.intro = intro; this.text = text;}
var tip001 = new tip("Choosing the Right Mechanic","Today's vehicles are so complex that the prospect of backyard tinkering - whether for genuine repairs or simple maintenance - is about as unattractive as it has ever been.","<p>Today's vehicles are so complex that the prospect of backyard tinkering - whether for genuine repairs or simple maintenance - is about as unattractive as it has ever been. When it comes to keeping your second most expensive purchase (second only to a home) looking and driving like new, finding a good repair facility with competent mechanics is critical. Unfortunately, this task often seems to be more difficult than it should.</p><P>Thankfully, there's a group that can help take much of the guesswork out of finding a competent mechanic. The independent, nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, better known as ASE, is dedicated to improving automotive service and repair by testing and certifying the competence of individual technicians.</P><P>ASE is the only automotive certification group that is both national in scope and industry-wide. It is self-supporting, with a forty-member, volunteer board of directors drawn from all segments of the automotive service industry, as well as representatives from education, government and consumer groups.</P><P><STRONG>ASE means Good News for Consumers</STRONG><br />ASE-certified technicians have proven their competency to you, to their employers, and to themselves by passing national, standardized exams. Because ASE's program is voluntary, technicians who have paid in time and money to earn ASE certification can be counted on to have a strong sense of pride in their profession. Moreover, prior to taking ASE exams, many mechanics attend training classes or study after work to increase their knowledge, another plus for consumers.</P><P>ASE certifies only the individual technician, not the repair shop itself, but it stands to reason that employers and managers who encourage their technicians to earn ASE's national credentials will be concerned about all aspects of their business.</P><P><STRONG>The Nuts and Bolts of ASE Certification</STRONG><br />Twice a year some 100,000 technicians sit for ASE certification exams at over 600 locations. The exams are administered in the field by ACT, the same organization that offers college entrance and other professional exams. The exams, which stress real-world diagnostic and repair problems, are designed by representatives from the automotive service and repair industry, vocational educators, and ASE's own in-house technical specialists.</P><P>There are eight automobile exams: Engine Repair, Engine Performance, Electrical/Electronic Systems, Brakes, Heating and Air Conditioning, Suspension and Steering, Manual Drive Train and Axles, and Automatic Transmissions. There are also tests for collision repair/refinish technicians, engine machinists, parts specialists, and medium/heavy truck technicians. </P><P>The exams are no cinch to pass; on average, one out of three test takers fail any given exam. But those who pass and fulfill the work experience requirement earn the title of ASE-certified Automobile Technician, while those who pass all eight auto exams earn Master Auto Technician status.</P><P>Every ASE technician is issued credentials listing his (or her) exact areas of certification and an appropriate shoulder insignia.</P><P>Nor does it end there: certification is not for life; ASE requires its technicians to recertify every five years to keep up with technology and to stay certified.</P><P><STRONG>How to Find an ASE Certified Technician</STRONG><br />ASE-certified technicians can be found at every type of repair facility: new car dealerships, independent garages, service stations, tire dealers, special shops, and major franchises. There are about 375,000 ASE technicians at work across the nation. Repair facilities with one or more ASE-certified technicians are entitled to display the blue and white ASE sign and post their certified technicians' credentials in the customer service area.</P><P><STRONG>Choosing the Right Technician</STRONG><br />As with physicians, auto technicians specialize. Because ASE offers certification in all major technical areas of auto repair and service, it's wise to ask the shop owner or service manager specifically for a technician who is certified in the appropriate area, say, brakes, engine repair, or air conditioning. The technicians are issued pocket-sized credential cards listing their exact areas of certification.</P><P>For free information about ASE technician certification, send a business-sized, self-addressed, stamped envelope to: ASE Consumer Brochure, Dept. CCC-F95, P.O. Box 347, Herndon, VA 22070.</P>");
var tip002 = new tip("Improving Your Car's Gas Mileage","As fuel prices climb ever higher, it's increasingly worth taking a few minutes to think about ways to help improve your car's gas mileage.","<p>As fuel prices climb ever higher, it's increasingly worth taking a few minutes to think about ways to help improve your car's gas mileage. Although it may not seem like much, stretching that tank of gas can go a long way towards stretching another dollar. The following are 22 effective tips from ASE certified technicians that can help you to reduce the amount of gas you use when driving:</p><P><STRONG>Tips for your car:</STRONG></P><UL><LI>Keep your tires properly inflated, and check them frequently. <LI>Keep your front suspension and steering in proper alignment. <LI>Use the thinnest viscosity oil that you car's manufacturer recommends. <LI>Keep you engine in proper mechanical condition. <LI>Keep your engine in tune and make sure the air and fuel filters are clean. <LI>Make sure your brakes are not dragging. <LI>Repair body damage. That crunched front fender adds aerodynamic drag - just ask any race car driver. <LI>Don't use premium fuel if your car does not require it; using it is an unnecessary expense. <LI>Don't waster your money on those late night \"as seen on TV\" products that are supposed to increase your mileage. </LI></UL><P><STRONG>For when you're driving</STRONG></P><UL><LI>Avoid excessive warm-up time. Modern engines do not require it. <LI>Don't idle your engine for long periods. Turn off your engine when you leave the car or have to wait a long time. <LI>Avoid jack-rabbit starts. <LI>Keep your speed at 55 miles per hour or less whenever possible. <LI>For newer vehicles with aerodynamic designs, close the windows and turn on the A/C when driving on the freeway. <LI>For older cars with inefficient A/C compressors, use the ventilation system and close the windows, temperature permitting. <LI>Anticipate merging traffic and stoplights - decelerate and accelerate smoothly. <LI>Plan your trips wisely. If you need to go several places, plan a route that allows you to run most or all of your errands in one outing. <LI>Empty the trunk! Extra clothes, overdue library books, tools and the bag of aluminum cans that you have been meaning to take to the recycler all weigh down your car unnecessarily. <LI>Car pool whenever possible or practical. <LI>Listen to radio reports for alternate routes around congested areas. <LI>Drive in the highest gear possible (without lugging the engine). <LI>Try to keep your speed constant. Use cruise control when on long stretches of road. </LI></UL>");
var tip003 = new tip("Proper Wheel Care","Modern wheels can enhance your car's appearance and performance but they also present a substantial cleaning challenge.","<p>Modern wheels can enhance your car's appearance and performance but they also present a substantial cleaning challenge. Heated dust particles from brake pads constantly bombard the wheel and bake into the finish. If left on the wheel, a phenomenon known as \"galvanic corrosion\" sets in which will eventually destroy the wheel's appearance. </p><P>Unfortunately, car wash soaps and household cleaners are not strong enough to break the bond between brake dust and the wheel. To properly clean wheels, the car care industry has developed two groups of wheel cleaners:</P><P>The first group are acid-based cleaners. These are widely used by detailers, car dealers and car washes desiring to clean wheels in the shortest possible time or with the least amount of effort. Acid-based cleaners are typically a 2-3% solution of oxylic, phosphoric and/or hydrochloric acid. Most spray-on/hose-off wheel cleaners fall into this group. While these cleaners pack the greatest cleaning punch they can etch the surface if allowed to dry on the wheel. Care should also be taken not to use acid cleaners on wheels with pitted or chipped surfaces. The acid will migrate into any fissures and accentuate flaking and peeling of surface coatings.</P><P>The second group of cleaners are commonly called non-acid or acid-free wheel cleaners. These are mild solutions of an alkaline solvent, usually ethylene glycol, with a wetting agent. These solutions creep under the dirt and brake dust, loosening and lifting surface grime. Non-acid cleaners usually require some surface agitation (brush or sponge) but are safer to the wheel's finish.</P><P>Once you've selected the proper wheel cleaner, here are some tips to make cleaning easier:</P><OL><P><LI>Clean the wheels first before washing the rest of the car. This prevents you from splattering cleaners, dirt and brake dust on already cleaned panels.</LI><LI>Do not clean wheels that are still hot from driving.</LI><LI>Clean one wheel at a time following the instructions on the cleaner. For extra tough grime and brake dust, agitate the surface with a soft, scrub brush. Do not allow any wheel cleaner to dry on the wheel. </LI><LI>Wax painted and clearcoated wheels for added surface protection and to facilitate future cleaning. </LI></OL>");
var tip004 = new tip("Why Wax Your Car?","Waxing provides an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment. Waxing also makes your car, new or old, look better.","<P>Predating the automobile, it was European coach builders that first applied coatings of animal fats and wax to protect the custom paintwork on their horse drawn carriages. This tradition has endured over 100 years and is still the best way to protect the paintwork on modern-day coaches. Today, the multi-layered finish on your car, from the primer through the top (clear) coat, is only .006 to .008 of an inch thick. Regardless of how fine the finish is now, it will deteriorate and dull. Radiant and ultraviolet energy, acid rain, salt, atmospheric pollution, insect fluids, and bird droppings wage a constant war on your car's finish. Waxing provides an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment.</P><P>Waxing also makes your car, new or old, look better. Quality waxes now combine enriching oils that \"wet\" the surface with Brazilian Carnauba Wax and/or modern polymers for a high gloss shine. This brings us to the subject of selecting a wax. Waxes can be made from a natural wax, usually Brazilian Carnauba, or synthetically made with polymers and acrylic resins. In choosing a wax, here are some points to consider:</P><P><STRONG>Carnauba Waxes</STRONG></P><P>Carnauba comes from the fronds of the \"Tree of Life\" (Copernica Cerifera) native to northern Brazil. It is nature's hardest, purest, and most transparent wax. Carnauba car waxes tend to produce a deeper, darker, richer shine that is often described as \"three-dimensional\".</P><P>Many enthusiasts and show-car owners prefer the shine of carnauba waxes, especially on black, red, and dark color cars. Carnauba waxes bead water nicely, absorb the acid content in rain and hide minor swirls in the paint.</P><P>On the minus side, carnauba waxes are not as durable as synthetic waxes. Depending on your climate, they typically last 90 days. (Paste carnauba waxes will outlast liquid carnauba waxes due to their higher wax content.) Some carnauba waxes are a little harder to apply and buff off. And, carnauba waxes can be temperamental, sometimes \"streaking\" under certain temperature conditions. The four waxes listed above are unusual as they wipe on and buff off with ease.</P><P><STRONG>Synthetic Waxes</STRONG></P><P>Made from modern polymers and acrylic resins, synthetic waxes offer maximum durability and ease of application. Synthetic waxes can last six to nine months or longer and typically wipe on and buff off with very little effort. These waxes, sometimes called sealants, create a very bright shine and are resistant to clouding and streaking.</P><P>On the down side, many enthusiasts feel synthetic waxes lack depth and richness. Black cars can look a sterile silvery-white in direct sunlight. And, the mirror-like polymers can collect in minor swirls and actually highlight paint flaws.</P><P><STRONG>One-Step Cleaner/Waxes</STRONG></P><P>Many brands of carnauba and synthetic waxes can be purchased with or without cleaning agents. If you are using a polish before you wax, select a \"pure\" wax without cleaners. These formulas should produce a higher gloss and last longer. If you cannot devote the extra time for separate polishing, select a one-step cleaner/wax. One-step waxes can do an excellent job of maintaining newer finishes but cannot restore older cars with dull, oxidized, or neglected paint.</P>");
var tip005 = new tip("Proper Waxing Tips","Once you've selected a wax, here are some tips to make waxing easier!","<p>Once you've selected a wax, here are some tips to make waxing easier:</p> <UL><LI>Always work in a shaded area. Sunlight heats the surface of your car, causing the wax to dry too quickly. This can cause hazing or streaking.</LI><LI>Use as thin a coating as possible when applying the wax. </LI><LI>Use clean, dry terrycloth towels to remove the wax and buff. Some tightly woven cloths (like diapers) can trap small particles between themselves and the paint, causing fine scratches. Microfiber towels help eliminate this problem, and work extremely well as a final wipe-down towel.</LI><LI>If you have difficulty buffing the wax to a uniform shine, switch to a clean wipe towel. </LI><LI>Hazing, streaking, and uneven gloss can result from using too much wax or waxing a surface that's too hot. If the gloss is uneven, mist the waxed surface with distilled water and re-wipe with a fresh towel. (A spray bottle with distilled water and 1/2 teaspoon of Isopropyl alcohol is a great solution for removing problem streaks and cloudy patches.) There are also any number of good new products that work wonders on problem cars with streaks and uneven gloss. Simply mist the surface with one of these products and wipe with a clean towel.</LI></UL><P><STRONG>Show-Car Trick</STRONG></P><P>Detailers that prepare show cars will often layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer while the carnauba wax adds depth and liquidity.</P>");
var tip006 = new tip("Vision and Driving Safety","Safe driving is about much more than having good tires and knowing how to change a flat; but where to begin? The answer may not be the most obvious, but it is the most important: vision.","<P>Safe driving is about much more than having good tires and knowing how to change a flat; but where to begin?&nbsp; The answer may not be the most obvious, but it is the most important: vision.&nbsp; Safe driving begins with a driver who can see and be seen.&nbsp; The following is a handy checklist to help you make sure that you won't be left in the dark this winter:</P><P><B>Windshield Wipers</B><BR>Wiper blades should be checked periodically. If they are brittle or worn out, it's better to replace them now than wait for them to fail.&nbsp; Depending upon climate, the rubber \"wiper\" part of your blades may be effective for only six months. &nbsp;</P><P>Clean them periodically with glass cleaner or windshield wiper solvent to remove accumulated road film. </P><P>If the wiper arm springs are weak or broken, replace the arm. This ensures the pressure will be evenly distributed along the length of the blade. </P><P>Be sure the windshield washers are working properly, too, and that you keep the reservoir filled with solvent. </P><P><B>Turn Signals</B><BR>Check your turn signals, brake lights and emergency flashers regularly to make sure they are working properly. They are essential for communicating with other drivers. When they're not working properly, other drivers can't get your message and the results can be disastrous. </P><P><B>Headlights</B><BR>After sunset, your chance of being involved in a fatal accident may increase by as much as 300%. That's a good reason to check your headlights periodically. Make sure they work on both high and low beam and are properly aimed. It's also a good idea to keep your headlights on while driving in the daylight. They help define your car's position on the road, and its distance from other drivers. </P><P><B>Rear Window</B><BR>If you have luggage, camping gear or other travel items loaded in the rear window, you may be an accident waiting to happen. Although side mirrors help, they are a poor substitute for a clear view out the back window. Likewise, an unobstructed view when backing up is essential. </P><P><B>Windshield<BR></B>The combined effect of chipped or cracked glass, bugs and road film obscure vision. Repair a damaged windshield as soon as possible and clean it regularly with windshield wiper solvent and a clean paper towel or cloth. </P><P><B>Sunglasses<BR></B>There are times when the sun visors above your windshield will not be enough to shield your eyes from glare, so have a good pair of sunglasses handy. Beware of substandard eye wear. It can distort your vision and fail to provide necessary ultraviolet protection. Be certain you can see and be seen, reminds the Council.</P>");
var tip007 = new tip("Changing Seasons Are Car Care Reminders","See if you can find the pattern here: summertime means vacations and an oil change. Fall means football, an oil change and tire rotation. In the winter it's hot cocoa and (you guessed it) an oil change. Springtime reminds us of April showers, an oil change and tire rotation.","<P>See if you can find the pattern here: summertime means vacations and an oil change. Fall means football, an oil change and tire rotation. In the winter it's hot cocoa and (you guessed it) an oil change. Springtime reminds us of April showers, an oil change and tire rotation. </P><P>If that exercise prompted you to think about seasonal car maintenance, then you and your car are headed in the right direction. October is National Car Care Month, when the Car Care Council encourages motorists not only to winterize their cars but also to develop the good maintenance habit throughout the year. </P><P>As part of the campaign, National Car Care Month incorporates free vehicle check lanes in participating communities. Last year, in thirty-five cities throughout the U.S., thousands of motorists took their cars through free check lanes. The results: nearly 9 out of 10 failed some portion of the inspection. A closer look reveals that thirty percent failed due to worn belts and hoses. Nearly one out of three (32%) were found to have low or dirty motor oil. It gets worse. Thirty-five percent failed the exhaust emissions test and 59% had bald or under-inflated tires. </P><P>\"These statistics help remind us to change the oil each season and rotate the tires every six months or as recommended in the owner's manual. But preventive maintenance doesn't end there. There's wheel alignment, cooling system, brakes and other systems and components needing periodic attention. </P><P>The owner's manual is a good place to start. Some car companies go so far as to break their service recommendations down month by month. The Council suggests reading the owner's manual carefully then keeping track of all maintenance. </P><P>If you keep good records you won't duplicate any maintenance procedures. And a well cared for car, with maintenance records to prove it, is worth a lot more in trade than the same car in average condition.\" </P><P>Watch for National Car Care Month activities in your community.</P>");
var tip008 = new tip("The Ultimate Way to Wash Your Car","Add these three steps to your wash routine and you will save time and keep your car's finish in tip-top condition.","<p>The three steps to add toyour wash routine</p><OL><LI><STRONG>Under-Panel and Wheel Areas:</STRONG><BR>This is the first part of your wash process. Why? Because 90% of all road grime, tar and excessive buildup of dirt is on these areas. Do not use any of this bucket's contents in the next step. 	<UL><LI>First, prepare a wash bucket with soap and water. Use a medium to heavy mix of soap with water. Use an old terry towel and wheel brush in this step. </LI><LI>Next, apply water to the under panel and wheels, doing one side of the car at a time. NOTE: Do not get any water on the upper sides or the top of car for this step. </LI><LI>After you have finished with all under areas, including the front bumper area and rear bumper area, you are ready for the next step. </LI></UL></LI><LI><STRONG>Top, Hood, Truck, and Side Areas</STRONG><BR>Prepare your second bucket with a light soap mix, using clean mitt and fresh contents in this bucket. Start this process by squirting off the car from the top area down, getting as much surface dirt as possible to rinse off of the car before you use the mitt. Starting with the top surfaces (trunk, top and hood) you use this fresh mild soap solution. Before doing the sides, rinse off the top surfaces, starting with the highest point of the vehicle. </LI><LI><STRONG>Now it is Time for the Drying Step</STRONG><BR>Start with your clean wet chamois, all wrung out, drying all the top surfaces first. Then proceed to the sides. <EM>Do not use the chamois on the under-panels and wheel areas.</EM> After you dry with the chamois, proceed to dry off the wheels and under areas with the old terry towels. Drive the car around the block and again go over the top areas with the chamois, and then dry the bottom areas with the terry towels. </LI></OL><P><DIV align=center><STRONG>If you apply this wash system, you will save time and keep your car's finish in tip-top condition.<BR><BR>This is a proven system: there is no substitution!</STRONG></DIV><P>&nbsp;</P><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width=350 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><P><STRONG>How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Automobile:</STRONG></P><UL><LI>By proper wash techniques on a consistent basis. </LI><LI>By proper detailing with the right products for your type of vehicle. </LI><LI>By proper finish protection before surface scratches and oxidation occur. </LI><LI>With regular maintenance, proper care and cleaning of the interior. </LI></UL></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>");
var tip009 = new tip("Car Games to Keep the Kids Happy","It's up to parents to help time on the road pass quickly, and a great way to do this is by playing games and singing songs. These suggestions are sure-fire ways keep your kids occupied when the excitement and anticipation of a fun vacation fades into boredom.","<P>Kids and car vacations. Let's face it - the two don't mix very well. Most kids just don't appreciate scenic drives. And historical landmarks - not high on the list of kid fun,unless the landmark is a theme park or a purple dinosaur statue. It's up to parents to help time on the road pass quickly, and a great way to do this is by playing games and singing songs. The suggestions below are sure-fire ways keep your kids occupied when the excitement and anticipation of a fun vacation fades into boredom. </P><BLOCKQUOTE><P><STRONG>License Plate Game</STRONG><BR>We've all played this, and there are few, if any, games better able to pass time. Here are just a few variations: Figure out personalized plates Count how many states you see, and award the child who gets the most Add the plate numbers immediately in front, or behind your car. This is a challenging math game sure to keep your kids entertained - or tired from trying to do quick addition!</P><P><STRONG>Word Association</STRONG> <BR>Another favorite, this game is good for a few laughs and to pass time. One person says a word and another person yells out the first thing that comes to mind. Go around until the car goes quiet, or someone says \"I didn't think of anything.\" For the extra-motivated, play the word association guessing game: think of a word or phrase (I'm thinking...be quiet) and challenge your kids to figure it out. It's up to you how many clues they get! </P><P><STRONG>Name that Tune</STRONG><BR>If your kids are old enough to know the names of songs (and maybe the artist names) this is a fun memory game. It's very easy to play - just select scan on the radio, and the first one to spout out the correct name gets a point. The first person to reach a pre-determined set of points gets to do something fun when you arrive at your destination. </P><P><STRONG>What Does the Thing Say?</STRONG><BR>If your kids are too young for songs, point out interesting objects and animals they've seen in books. Example: What's that? A cow! What does the cow say? MOOO!. This can be a fun way to pass the time for cranky toddlers. </P><P><STRONG>Colors and Cars</STRONG><BR>Count specific colors on certain cars - say, blue VW Beetles or Red Mini Vans. This can be great fun on crowded highways where there's not much to look at in the way of scenery. The winner gets to listen to a favorite song on the radio, or a similar prize designed to keep peace while in transit.</P><P><STRONG>Sing-along</STRONG><BR>Add a twist to your favorite songs by making up lyrics and singing aloud. This can be challenging and a lot of silly fun!</P></BLOCKQUOTE><P>No matter what games you play, have fun! Amusing your children can make for lively and silly travel, and is sure to melt the miles between your destinations. And don't be afraid to think up your own games. Just keep in mind that a good game includes counting, singing, and thinking in a silly way - from license plates to farm animals on a scenic drive. </P>");
var tip010 = new tip("Summer Drive Guide: Get Your Vehicle Ready for Hot Weather","You can lessen the odds of mechanical failure through periodic maintenance. Your vehicle should last longer and command a higher resale price, too!","<P>Summer's heat, dust, and stop-and-go traffic will take their toll on your vehicle. Add the effects of winter, and you could be poised for a breakdown. You can lessen the odds of mechanical failure through periodic maintenance. Your vehicle should last longer and command a higher resale price, too!</P><P>Some of the following tips are easy to do; others require a skilled auto technician.</P><BLOCKQUOTE><P><STRONG>Air Conditioning</STRONG><BR>A marginally operating system will fail in hot weather. Have the system examined by a qualified technician.</P><P><STRONG>Cooling System</STRONG><BR>The greatest cause of summer breakdowns is overheating. The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.) Do-it-yourselfers, never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro.</P><P><STRONG>Oil</STRONG><BR>Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual-more often (every 3,000 miles) if you make frequent short jaunts, extended trips with lots of luggage, or tow a trailer.</P><P><STRONG>Engine Performance</STRONG><BR>Replace other filters (air, fuel, PCV, etc.) as recommended--more often when in dusty conditions. Get engine drivability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good shop.</P><P><STRONG>Windshield Wipers</STRONG><BR>A dirty windshield causes eye fatigue and can pose a safety hazard. Replace worn blades and get plenty of windshield washer solvent.</P><P><STRONG>Lights</STRONG><BR>Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean dirt and insects from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.</P><P><STRONG>Tires</STRONG><BR>Have your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles. Check tire pressures once a month; let the tires \"cool down\" first. Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition. Examine tires for tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. An alignment is warranted if there's uneven tread wear or if your vehicle pulls to one side.</P><P><STRONG>Brakes</STRONG><BR>Brakes should be inspected as recommended in your manual, or sooner if you notice pulsations, grabbing, noises, or longer stopping distance. Minor brake problems should be corrected promptly.</P><P><STRONG>Battery</STRONG><BR>Batteries can fail any time of year. The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check the fluid level monthly. Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.</P><P><STRONG>Emergencies</STRONG><BR>Carry some basic tools--ask a technician for suggestions. Also include a first aid kit, flares, and a flashlight. Consider buying a cellular phone.</P></BLOCKQUOTE>");
var tip011 = new tip("Summer Drive Guide: Vacation Driving Checklist","A driving vacation can be a lot of fun, but don't leave safety and common sense behind. Here are the basics for a safe vacation.","<P><STRONG>Get out of the house and down the road!<BR></STRONG><BR>A driving vacation can be a lot of fun, but don't leave safety and common sense behind. Here are the basics for a safe vacation.</P><P><STRONG>Before You Go</STRONG></P><ul><LI>Check your car or have it serviced before any long trip (battery, tires, belts and fluids). </LI><LI>Have a qualified technician check the air conditioner. </LI><LI>Check your oil. If you will be towing a trailer or boat, or driving in the desert, switch to a motor oil with higher viscosity. </LI><LI>Pack an emergency kit that includes water, jumper cables, flares, a flashlight, equipment to change a tire, and a first aid kit. </LI><LI>Fill up your gas tank at night or early in the morning to minimize damage to the ozone layer. </LI><LI>Make sure your child safety seats and booster seats are properly installed. </LI></ul><P><STRONG>On the Road</STRONG></P><ul><LI>Require all occupants to buckle up, with children in the back seat. </LI><LI>Obey speed limits and all roadway signs. </LI><LI>Drive calmly and avoid entanglements with aggressive drivers. </LI><LI>Pack non-perishable snacks and plenty of juice and water (individual water bottles for each family member helps you monitor intake to avoid dehydration). </LI><LI>Take frequent breaks - at least every two hours - and avoid driving when tired. </LI><LI>Be especially careful around railroad crossings. </LI><LI>Avoid driving in the \"No Zone\" around trucks. If you cannot see the truck driver in the truck's mirror, the truck driver cannot see you. </LI><LI>Slow down in work zones, obey all signs and flaggers and pay attention to the vehicle in front of you (most work zone crashes are rear-end collisions due to an inattentive driver). </LI></ul><P><STRONG>Touring Your Destination </STRONG></P><ul><LI>Never leave children alone in a car. Do not leave children or pets in a car with the windows rolled up even for a few minutes. </LI><LI>A sunshade can help keep the car from becoming dangerously hot. </LI><LI>Cover up seat belts and child safety seats with a towel or blanket while the car is parked (on a hot day, the plastic and metal parts can get hot enough to burn). </LI><LI>Review safe pedestrian practices with children. </LI><LI>Taking or renting bikes? Be sure to pack your bike helmets. </LI><LI>Have a planned meeting site in case someone gets lost. </LI><LI>Above all - take it easy! Vacations should be enjoyable. If you are tense you are more likely to speed and drive aggressively. If you are tired, you are more likely to make driving errors or fall asleep at the wheel.</LI></ul>");
var tip012 = new tip("Tips and Techniques for Driving in Rain","Here are several tips to keep in mind when it's gray and drizzly out, and you're required to brave the storm and drive somewhere rather than curl up in a down comforter with a good book, as nature dictates you should.","<P>Here are several tips to keep in mind when it's gray and drizzly out, and you're required to brave the storm and drive somewhere rather than curl up in a down comforter with a good book, as nature dictates you should.</P><UL><LI>First, take precautionary measures. Allow for more travel time; keep in mind the traffic and the fact that you should be driving slower, or that your preplanned route may be unavailable. </LI><LI>Also, stay on top of your car's condition; its brakes, tire pressure and tread depth, wipers and defroster should be checked regularly so that you don't have to deal with it during a deluge. </LI><LI>Safety features such as stability control, traction control and all-wheel drive are increasingly popular standard or optional features in vehicles. If you live in an area with frequent inclement weather, consider these in your next car purchase. Furthermore, tires designed specifically for wet roads aid drivers during the storm seasons. </LI><LI>Make sure that your wipers are in good condition and functioning properly. If they're brittle or damaged, replace them before you're caught in a downpour. </LI><LI>Every car should have an emergency kit. </LI></UL><P><STRONG>Now you're ready to hit the road.</STRONG></P><UL><LI>The biggest issue to take into consideration is that a wet road is more slippery than a dry road. Your tires lose traction and adherence to the road because there's a film of liquid between them and the asphalt. Thus, you should leave extra space between you and the car in front of you. Brake earlier and with less force than you would normally. Not only does this increase the stopping distance between you and the car in front of you, it also lets the driver behind you know that you're slowing down. Also, be more meticulous about using turn signals, so that other drivers know your intentions, and take turns and curves with less speed than you would in dry conditions. </LI><LI>Most of America's roads are crowned in the middle, which means that the water will run off to the sides. If possible, stay on the middle of the road to avoid deep standing puddles. </LI><LI>If you see a large pool of brackish water ahead of you, if at all possible, drive around it or choose a different route. Water splashing up into your engine compartment can damage your internal electrical systems. Also, a pothole may be hiding under the water, just waiting in ambush to damage a wheel. If you can't gauge the depth, or if it's covering up the side curb, try to avoid it. </LI><LI>Don't attempt to cross running water; this isn't an SUV commercial, and you'll probably get into a heckuva lot of trouble if the force of the water is greater than the weight of your vehicle. Save the whitewater ride for the Colorado River. </LI><LI>After you cross a puddle, tap on your brake pedal lightly to dry off some of the water on your rotors. </LI><LI>Turn on your headlights, even when there's a light sprinkle. It helps you see the road, and more importantly, it helps other motorists see you. However, don't blast your high beams in the rain or fog -- it'll obscure your view further, as the beam will reflect back at you on the water droplets in the air. </LI><LI>Watch out for pedestrians. Fiddling with an umbrella or a rain slicker means that a usually observant pedestrian is otherwise distracted. Plus, raindrops deaden sound, so the usual audio clues for measuring car distances become obscured. Keep a sharp lookout for people in the road. </LI><LI>If it's raining so hard that you can't see the road or the car in front of you, pull over and wait it out. </LI><LI>If there's a chance that the rain will freeze, double your precautions. Carry snow chains, as well as a supply of salt, sand or kitty litter. When your tires are spinning on a patch of ice, place some of said material around the drive wheels to gain traction. It also helps to have a small shovel to remove excess ice and snow from around the tires and to be in second gear rather than first. </LI></UL><P>Taking a few precautions and being extra careful will hopefully keep you from being the poor, sopping wet chump on the shoulder of the freeway waiting for a tow truck.</P>");
var tip013 = new tip("Auto Emergencies: What to Do When Something Goes Wrong","\"Just in case\" - if you ever find you and your car are in need of assistance, these tips might help you to get yourself out of a sticky situation.","<P><STRONG>1. The driver is locked out of the car.</STRONG><BR>Button locks: Use a wire or a coat hanger. Straighten the wire and make a small loop or fishhook shape at one end. Slip the wire through the crack of the window or down through the top crack of the door. You may slip the wire past the weather-stripping of the door. Jiggle the wire around so that the hook will loop around the button lock and then try to lift up the lock. Have a lot of patience.</P><P>If you are unable to pull up the lock for some reason, call a police station and tell them the circumstances. A service station may also help to unlock the door. The police call is free - a service station will probably charge about $25.00.</P><P><EM><STRONG>NOTE:</STRONG> The weather-stripping around the window often costs more than the locksmith or tow truck driver's fee.</EM></P><P><STRONG>2. Car is stuck</STRONG></P><ul><LI><STRONG>On ice:</STRONG> When moving the car, keep a steady rate of speed to prevent getting stuck again. Drive slowly. The car may skid some, but as long as it is moving, chances of getting to solid ground are at the maximum. To get off an ice patch, try kitty litter, sand, dirt, or floor mats for friction. Sprinkle the abrasives (front or back) for about fifteen feet. <BR><BR>Put the sack of sand or kitty litter back into the trunk and don't stop for anything until the car is on solid ground. Try not to spin the wheels, but if no abrasive material is available, try letting some air out of the tires to gain some friction. </LI><LI><STRONG>In snow:</STRONG> There are many ways to free a car from the snow. Try rocking the car back and forth by shifting quickly from drive (or first gear) to reverse. Work out a rhythm to the rocking. After rocking for a few minutes, shift into neutral and increase engine speed to let the transmission cool. Once the car is free, keep it moving. Keep the wheels as straight as possible while rocking. If the wheels heat up, let them cool before continuing. Heated tires will sink deeper into the snow. Don't spin the wheels; this will heat up the wheels and also cause ice to form under the wheels. Put a manual transmission into second gear to rock it. <BR><BR>You may be able to shovel enough snow away from the wheels to get some traction. If there is no shovel, use the base of the jack or fold over the floor mat in the place of the shovel. Car chains probably can't be mounted at this time, but they may be used to provide traction. Tie the chains to the bumper so that the car will pull them along until you are on solid ground. Strap chains are handy for traction on ice, snow, and sometimes on mud. They can be mounted without jacking up the car. <BR><BR>Put several bags of sand in the trunk of the car for added traction. Even if the weight of the sand doesn't help, you will have sand to spread under the tires when the car is stuck. </LI><LI><STRONG>In mud:</STRONG> Being stuck in mud is worse than being stuck in either ice or snow, because mud clings to the undercarriage of the car until there is no way to get any traction. Spinning the wheels only drives them deeper. When stuck in the mud, use the same methods as getting out of snow or ice. If these methods don't work, call a tow truck. </LI><LI><STRONG>In sand:</STRONG> Spinning the wheels in sand drives only drives them down deeper. The undercarriage is hung up once the car is sunk to axle level. At this point, a tow truck will be needed. If the car is not up to the hubs in the sand, try letting a little bit of air out of the tires to increase the friction. </LI></ul><P><STRONG>3. Blizzard Conditions.</STRONG><BR>When the car can't be moved during blizzard conditions, don't panic. Below are several survival tips that may help to weather the storm.</P><ul><LI>If the trouble is just starting, look for shelter: a house, barn, store, or service station nearby. </LI><LI>If you can't see a place of shelter, stay in the car. DO NOT wander around, looking for shelter and get lost in the storm. </LI><LI>Run the engine and the heater for ten minutes every half hour. Open the windows a little bit while the engine is running. Engine idle consumes about one gallon of gasoline per hour. Five gallons of fuel is enough for one day with this method. Don't race the motor and waste fuel. </LI><LI>Open the door once in a while so that it does not become snow packed. When opening the door, check to make sure the exhaust pipe is not blocked by snow. </LI><LI>Blow the horn and flash the lights while the engine is running. Don't run down the battery in the meantime. </LI><LI>Stretch arms and legs frequently inside the car. </LI><LI>Use anything available to keep warm: rip out car carpeting for blankets, use floor mats, linings from the trunk, or car seat covers. If the situation becomes really bad, rip the upholstery from the rear seats and roof of the car. </LI><LI>If you absolutely must drive in hazardous conditions, carry food, water and extra clothing in the car in case of emergencies. </LI></uL><P><STRONG>4. When the car breaks down on a Federal Interstate</STRONG><BR>The driver should lift the hood of the car, turn on the emergency signals, and wait for help. This is also true when the car runs out of gas. The person stopping may consent to send a tow truck or may even offer you a ride to the next service station. If a passenger car does not stop, the Highway Patrol will come along eventually and offer help. </P><P>There are situations, however, that are not as ideal as those on Federal Interstate roads. Drivers sometimes have accidents on isolated roadways - either running out of gas or breakdown of parts. The best advice comes from a patrolman, who says to use your common sense. Be sure to check your gas gauge, tires, and other accessories and parts before taking trips on lonely roads. If your car does have a failure or runs out of gas, it is not always wise to lift the hood, especially if you plan to leave the area. It is probably best to walk to the nearest farm or rural home and ask to use the phone (or ask the homeowner to call for help, if he doesn't want to let you into the house). It would probably be best to lock the car if you plan to walk for any distance or to be away from it for any length of time. </P><P>If the car breaks down during a storm, such as a blizzard, stay in the car and follow the advice given for blizzard conditions (#3 above). Hitchhiking is illegal, but a policeman will not arrest you if your car has broken down and you are walking in search of help.</P>");
var tip014 = new tip("Make Your Car Look Like a Million","In the detail shop, your car will be deep-cleaned inside and out, top to bottom - you may not even recognize it when you pick it up. So what really happens to your car during a professional detailing?","<P>Your car can look nearly new-inside and out-after a professional auto detail. But what do you get for your money?</P><P>For around $100 - $300, a professional auto detail can restore most cars to their former glory. With proper tools and years of experience, a professional detailer will make your vehicle look its best.</P><P><STRONG>The steps of a professional detail:</STRONG></P><P>In the detail shop, your car will be deep-cleaned inside and out, top to bottom-you may not even recognize it when you pick it up. So what really happens to your car during a professional detailing?</P><P><STRONG>It Starts Outside</STRONG><BR>Logically, a professional detail begins at the vehicle's exterior.</P><P>The detail begins by taking care of the wheels, tires, doorjambs, bumpers, grilles, and all of the nitty-gritty tight spots on the car. The next step is to remove any road tar and bugs that are stuck to the finish, and to evaluate the paint. The paint is examined to establish a game plan for how to polish and buff the paint to really make the finish look as new as possible. A detail shop uses different types of foam pads and polishes with a power buffer to remove scratches, scuffs and other small imperfections from the paint. The detailer decides what products and tools to use, based on the condition of the paint. A series of products or steps may be used, but the final result should be a smooth, glossy paint finish. The key with the paint is to only be as aggressive as you need to be to get the result, because you don't want to create a lot of swirl marks in the paint.</P><P>Once the car is polished and all the swirl marks are removed, a coat of quality wax is applied by hand to protect the paint. The final step is to address all of the exterior trim and rubber pieces on the car, including door handles, mouldings, tires, rubber trim around the windows, and polishing the glass.</P><P><STRONG>The Inside Job</STRONG><BR>A vehicle's interior cleaning begins with a thorough vacuuming to remove all loose dirt and prepare the car for the interior detail. A brush and air nozzle are used to clean the air vents, and to get between the seats and other tight areas. After a complete vacuuming, the car's interior is shampooed from top to bottom, literally. Detailers use a mild cleaning solution, a soft wash mitt and towels. The headliner is first, followed by the dash, center console, air vents, seats and doors, leaving the dirtiest area for last, which is the carpets and floor mats. The idea is to work your way from the top to the bottom, cleaning and drying as you go. You want to pre-soak any stains and get in there with a shampoo brush.</P><P>Once the interior has been shampooed, detailers go back through the interior with an air nozzle and a boar's hair brush to knock loose any dirt particles loosened by shampooing. Then the interior is re-vacuumed, again using the boar's hair brush. The brush and vacuum clean as much as possible without a lot of moisture.</P><P>If a vehicle has leather interior, detailers apply a liberal amount of a leather care product and allow it to soak into the seats for a few minutes. The seats are wiped down with clean towels after the product has had time to soak into the leather.</P><P><STRONG>Detailers Focus on Problem Areas</STRONG><BR>Probably the most common problem with cars that enter detail shops is contaminants on the paint, such as dried tree sap, bird droppings or paint overspray. Detailers use a soft clay cleaning bar prior to buffing, gently rubbing over the finish to remove contaminants such as overspray paint and diesel. The clay bar is designed to work with cars that have clear-coat paints. It smoothes the paint out prior to buffing. Other contaminants can be removed safely with a mild solvent and a little dab of rubbing alcohol will often remove some contaminants, but it should not be used in direct sunlight.</P><P>Another common problem is coffee stains, which should be cleaned up quickly. Coffee stains are presoaked with a mild cleaner and then roughed-up with a nylon brush. The important step is to rub the stain with a terry towel to bring the stain up before vacuuming. Coffee left too long on upholstery or carpets can leave a permanent stain.</P><P>Smoke and pet odors are another common problem that detail shops deal with every day. The odor in the car of a person who smokes can usually be handled with multiple shampoos. Some detail shops use spray-on products that contain active enzymes to treat the interior. Some detailers even have access to an ozone machine that generates an \"ozone fog\" inside the car, which can be very effective to counteract pet odors.</P><P><STRONG>Final Steps</STRONG><BR>Once the interior is finished, detailers often wipe the exterior again with clean cloth diapers or micro-fiber towels. The exterior is wiped from end to end, beginning with the paint, since the goal is a glossy finish without any swirl marks. The doorjambs and the fuel-filler door are often opened and wiped clean again. The areas around the lights and under the grilles should be wiped and checked for any small spots or hidden areas that were missed in the cleaning or buffing process.</P><P>The last step of a quality auto detailing is a final inspection checklist, which ensures the job was completed from top to bottom. The difference between an okay detail and a great detail is sometimes only fifteen minutes, and that's why professionals spend the fifteen minutes to get a great job.</P>");
var tip015 = new tip("When to Change Your Oil","The rule of thumb for oil changes is every 5000-7500 miles, depending on the manufacturer's recommendation. But what if you do not drive more than 7500 miles for the entire year?","<P><STRONG>Is It Mileage or Time That Determines When to Change Your Oil?</STRONG></P><P>The rule of thumb for oil changes is every 5000-7500 miles, depending on the manufacturer's recommendation. But what if you do not drive more than 7500 miles for the entire year? If you use the car only for short trips on city streets, particularly in cold weather, you probably should have the oil changed every three months.</P><P>Such driving, in which the engine never reaches its proper operating temperature, can cause condensation of water inside the crankcase and dilution of the oil by gasoline.</P><P>Water contamination of the oil occurs when moist air is drawn into the crankcase and condenses after the engine is turned off. Frequent short trips increase the amount of condensation.</P><P>The water in the crankcase is not harmful, but it can combine with sulfur, a byproduct of combustion, to form sulfurous acid, a weak acid that breaks down the lubricating qualities of the oil.</P><P>The fuel contamination is a separate problem. In the carburetors of older engines and even some fuel-injected engines, a richer mix of fuel is sent to the engine on cold starts. Also on cold starts, some gasoline seeps down the cylinder walls into the crankcase. A small amount of gasoline contamination is not harmful, but larger amounts dilute the oil and lower the viscosity-again compromising the oil's lubricating qualities.</P><P>Another problem associated with driving a car only on short trips is that engine deposits tend to increase because the combustion chamber never heats up enough to burn off hard carbon that forms on the piston head and valves. Eventually, this can cause engine ping, because the deposits create localized hot spots inside the combustion chamber that cause the fuel to burn unevenly.</P><P>When you drive a car a long distance, the engine, coolant and oil all get quite hot and these contaminants are boiled out of the oil and soot does not form as quickly. If the weather is cold, you need to drive a lot farther, certainly more than 10 miles at freeway speeds, to reach operating temperature.</P><P>If you drive mostly on long but infrequent trips, there is nothing wrong with changing your oil every six months or even every year, according to Texaco oil experts.</P><P>The final consideration is your car warranty. If the manufacturer specifically requires you to change the oil based on elapsed time, it would probably be worth doing so until the warranty expires. If the engine needed a repair covered under the warranty, a dealer might balk at honoring a claim if the oil changes did not follow the manufacturer's recommendations.</P>");
var tip016 = new tip("Cell Phone Safety","There are now over 83 million cellular phone subscribers in the United States, a large number of whom use their phones while driving on a daily basis. This has created an increasing concern about cell phone safety.","<P>There are now over 83 million cellular phone subscribers in the United States, a large number of whom use their phones while driving on a daily basis. This has created an increasing concern about cell phone safety. Although there has been a lot of discussion in recent months about legislative measures to stop or curtail phone usage, almost everyone seems to be taking a wait-and-see attitude.</P><P>Most of us have been behind someone who is driving erratically as they try to use their cell phone. They weave and meander, fight to stay in their lane, and almost lose control of their vehicle. It can be a scary prospect, made all the more sobering by the sight of a young child seated in the back of the wayward vehicle. What, exactly, is the future of cellular phone use in cars?</P><P>No one knows for sure, but there are several different points of view. In a controversy this large (and with this much cash on the line) it's no wonder that differing opinions abound. On one end, safety advocates insist that cell phone use in cars should be banned completely. On the other end, cellular industry cheerleaders insist that the phones pose only a minor nuisance, easily corrected with education and training. (It should be noted that this latter camp gets most of its motivation -- not to mention its funding -- from the heavily lined pockets of the phone manufacturers and line providers.) Sorting through all these facts and fictions can take a while.</P><P>Let's look at the positives of automotive cell phone use first. </P><UL><LI><STRONG>Economic:</STRONG> They allow us to conduct business while stuck in traffic. </LI><LI><STRONG>Personal Safety:</STRONG> They make it easier to call for help in an emergency. </LI><LI><STRONG>Mechanical:</STRONG> Roadside assistance is just a phone call away. </LI><LI><STRONG>Access:</STRONG> We can stay in touch with loved ones and colleagues. </LI><LI><STRONG>Money Saving:</STRONG> It's sometimes cheaper to call long-distance from our cars than from our homes. </LI></UL><P>In spite of these benefits, cell phones can pose a serious health risk. NHTSA has determined through research that driver inattention is a primary or contributing factor in as many as 50 percent of all traffic accidents. While more research is needed to determine exactly what role cellular phones play in this scenario (NHTSA and AAA currently have studies underway), some states and municipalities aren't content to sit and wait until all the facts are in. One example: The city of Philadelphia recently went into an uproar when a 2-year-old girl in a car seat was killed by a driver who ran a stop sign while dialing his cellular phone. The state of Pennsylvania is now pursuing legislation. Other states are close on their heels.</P><P>The New York state legislature, for example, has as many as eight cellular-related measures up for consideration in the coming session. Among them: A.50, A.2302, and A.6120, which would prevent the use of a cellular phone by the operator of any motor vehicle; A.3684, which would outlaw cell phone use in certain circumstances; and several other bills, which would require police accident reports to indicate whether cellular phones were present and may have contributed to the accident. Other states with pending measures include: Illinois, Washington, Hawaii, Delaware, New Jersey, Nebraska, and almost a dozen others. Even California, cell phone capital of the West, had a bill that died in committee in 1999 and may see renewed activity in 2000.</P><P>So the battle lines are being drawn. And already research is showing some surprising results. For instance, contrary to popular belief, driver inattention <I>does not</I> lessen during hands-free operation. Apparently, whether the operator is dialing, holding the phone while speaking, or using hands-free, he/she experiences equal levels of distraction. Also, older drivers (over 50) experience two to three times as much distraction as their younger counterparts.</P><P>And then there's the famous New England Journal of Medicine article from 1997. This study, which has since drawn fire for its methodology, equated driving while using a cellular phone with operating a motor vehicle while legally drunk. Although this claim has since been disputed, it raised the hackles of many a cellular phone executive, not to mention the pens of a thousand PR firms. This study also found that cell phone users were <I>four times</I> more likely to have an accident than those same drivers when they were not using their phones. But the NEJM article copped a plea at the end (on the advice of counsel?), saying, \"We caution against interpreting our data as showing that cellular telephones are harmful and that their use should be restricted.\"</P><P>Almost every study we looked at ended with a similar conclusion, which leads us to believe that there may, in fact, be serious legal ramifications to consider here (the cellular phone lobby, after all, is a huge well-oiled machine; consider the likes of AT&amp;T or Sprint tapping on your shoulder with a sledgehammer and a subpoena). With a spate of new technologies poised to enter vehicles in the coming decade -- navigation, voice recognition, mobile fax, Internet, voice mail, to name a few -- the next few years should shape up to be an interesting time in the courts and legislatures throughout the country. Early unfavorable decisions could set negative precedents and end up costing communications firms <I>beaucoup bucks</I> -- that's two \"Bs,\" as in multiple billions.</P><P>In the meantime, responsible use of the technology can limit accidents and protect your safety while talking and traveling. World of Wireless Communications, a cellular industry organization in favor of education and opposed to regulation, offers the following safety tips: </P><UL><LI>Get to know your phone and its features </LI><LI>When available, use a hands-free device </LI><LI>Position your phone within easy reach </LI><LI>Suspend calls in heavy traffic or hazardous weather conditions </LI><LI>Do not take notes or look up phone numbers while driving </LI><LI>If possible, place calls when you are not moving or merging </LI><LI>Do not engage in stressful or emotional conversations that may divert your attention from the road </LI></UL><P>This last point is crucial, since several preliminary studies have shown a high correlation between the complexity and emotional content of a call and the amount of distraction it causes. If you have a matter of high urgency or involving deep emotions, pull off to the side of the road until you're done.</P><P>A lot of this legislative and regulatory activity will shake itself out over the coming decade. But make no doubt about it: Cellular phone use while driving can be hazardous to your health. As always, use caution and make conservative driving decisions. It could save your life.</P>");
var tip017 = new tip("How to Communicate for Better Automotive Service","Whatever type of repair facility you patronize - dealership, service station, independent garage, specialty shop, or a national franchise - good communication between the customer and the shop is vital.","<P>Today's cars, light trucks, and sport-utility vehicles are high-tech marvels with digital dashboards, oxygen sensors, electronic computers, unibody construction, and more. They run better, longer, and more efficiently than models of years past.</P><P>But when it comes to repairs, some things stay the same. Whatever type of repair facility you patronize--dealership, service station, independent garage, specialty shop, or a national franchise--good communication between the customer and the shop is vital. The following tips should help you along the way:</P><UL><LI>Do your homework before taking your vehicle in for repairs or service. </LI><LI>Read the owner's manual to learn about the vehicle's systems and components. </LI><LI>Follow the recommended service schedules. </LI><LI>Keep a log of all repairs and service. </LI></UL><P>When you think about it, you know your car better than anyone else. You drive it every day and know how it feels and sounds when everything is right. So don't ignore its warning signals.</P><UL><LI>Use all of your senses to inspect your car frequently. Check for: 	<UL>	<LI>Unusual sounds, odors, drips, leaks, smoke, warning lights, gauge readings. </LI>	<LI>Changes in acceleration, engine performance, gas mileage, fluid levels. </LI>	<LI>Worn tires, belts, hoses. </LI>	<LI>Problems in handling, braking, steering, vibrations. </LI>	</UL></LI><LI>Note when the problem occurs. 	<UL>	<LI>Is it constant or periodic? </LI>	<LI>When the vehicle is cold or after the engine has warmed up? </LI>	<LI>At all speeds? Only under acceleration? During braking? When shifting? </LI>	<LI>When did the problem first start? </LI>	</UL></LI></UL><P>Professionally run repair establishments have always recognized the importance of communications in automotive repairs. </P><UL><LI>Once you you are at the repair establishment, communicate your findings. </LI><LI>Be prepared to describe the symptoms. (In larger shops you'll probably speak with a service writer/service manager rather than with the technician directly.) </LI><LI>Carry a written list of the symptoms that you can give to the technician or service manager.</LI> <LI>Resist the temptation to suggest a specific course of repair. Just as you would with your physician, tell where it hurts and how long it's been that way, but let the technician diagnose and recommend a remedy. </LI></UL><P>Stay involved... Ask questions.</P><UL><LI>Ask as many questions as you need. Do not be embarrassed to request lay definitions. </LI><LI>Don't rush the service writer or technician to make an on-the-spot diagnosis. Ask to be called and apprised of the problem, course of action, and costs before work begins. </LI><LI>Before you leave, be sure you understand all shop policies regarding labor rates, guarantees, and acceptable methods of payment. </LI><LI>Leave a telephone number where you can be called. </LI></UL>");
var tip018 = new tip("Keeping Your Vehicle in Tune with the Environment","Car care is definitely a win-win situation. Besides helping the environment, a properly maintained and operated vehicle will run more efficiently, will be safer, and will last up to 50% longer, according to a survey of ASE-certified Master Auto Technicians.","<P>Car care is definitely a win-win situation. Besides helping the environment, a properly maintained and operated vehicle will run more efficiently, will be safer, and will last up to 50% longer, according to a survey of ASE-certified Master Auto Technicians. The following tips should put you on the road to environmentally conscious car care.</P><UL><LI>Keep your engine tuned up. A misfiring spark plug can reduce fuel efficiency as much as 30%. Follow the service schedules listed in your owner's manual. Replace filters and fluids as recommended. </LI><LI>Check your tires for proper inflation. Underinflation wastes fuel your engine has to work harder to push the vehicle. Wheels that are out-of-line (as evidenced by uneven tread wear or vehicle pulling) make the engine work harder, too. Properly maintained tires will last longer, meaning fewer scrap tires have to be disposed. </LI><LI>Keep your air conditioner in top condition and have it serviced only by a technician certified competent to handle/recycle refrigerants. Air conditioners contain CFCs-gases that have been implicated in the depletion of the ozone layer. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, almost one third of the CFCs released into the atmosphere come from mobile air conditioners; some simply leaks out, but the majority escapes during service and repair-so it's important to choose a qualified technician. </LI><LI>Do-it-yourselfers: dispose of used motor oil, anti-freeze/coolant, tires, and old batteries properly. Many repair facilities accept these items. Or call your local municipal or county government for recycling sites. Never dump used oil or anti-freeze on the ground or in open streams. </LI><LI>Observe speed limits. Mileage decreases sharply above 55 mph. </LI><LI>Drive gently. Avoid sudden accelerations and jerky stop-and-go's. Use cruise-control on open highways to keep your speed as steady as possible. </LI><LI>Avoid excessive idling. Shut off the engine while waiting for friends and family. Today's vehicles are designed to \"warm up\" fast, so forget about those five-minute warm ups on cold winter mornings. </LI><LI>Remove excess items from the vehicle. Less weight means better mileage. Store luggage/ cargo in the trunk rather than on the roof to reduce air drag. </LI><LI>Plan trips. Consolidate your daily errands to eliminate unnecessary driving. Try to travel when traffic is light to avoid stop-and-go conditions. Join a car pool. </LI></UL><P>Remember, how your car runs, how you drive it, and how its fluids, old parts, and tires are disposed of all have serious consequences on the environment.</P>");
var tip019 = new tip("Cold-Winter Care to Keep Your Car Running All Season Long","Most drivers fail to realize how hard winter is on their trusty automobiles. Here are a few pointers to keep things like your engine and chassis in top form, and your concentration where it belongs - on the road.","<P>Most drivers fail to realize how hard winter is on their trusty automobiles. Here are a few pointers to keep things like your engine and chassis in top form, and your concentration where it belongs - on the road.</P><BLOCKQUOTE><P><STRONG>Cool It On The Warm-Ups</STRONG><BR>For years, you've been told to warm up your car before driving. That's just a myth born of the need of comfort. The engine warms up most efficiently while it's being driven, not while it's idling. So start it up and drive slowly until you feel heat coming from out of the vents. Then you can take it up to normal speed.</P><P>If it is bitter cold out or the car stalls when you put it in drive, then you can warm it up for a minute or so. Any longer is a waste of time and gas, and probably an affront to your still-sleeping neighbors.</P><P><STRONG>Pick An Oil And Stick With It</STRONG><BR>It used to be that you had to switch to a thinner motor oil in the winter. But now, motor oils change viscosities all by themselves. Most manufacturers now recommend 5W30 oil for year-round use, so go with that. The numbers mean that the oil acts like thin 5-weight oil when the engine is cold and thickens to 30 weight when it reaches operating temperature.</P><P><STRONG>Dilute That Antifreeze</STRONG><BR>Never put undiluted antifreeze in your radiator. Ironically the freezing point of straight antifreeze is lower than antifreeze and water. Check the bottle for the proper mix: It's usually 50-50 or 70-30.</P><P><STRONG>Thaw A Sticky Door Lock</STRONG><BR>pouring warm water in the lock won't help. Instead, dip your key in rubbing alcohol to loosen a frozen lock. Or heat the key with a match or the car's cigarette lighter before inserting it in the lock.</P><P><STRONG>Keep Your Car Outside</STRONG><BR>You would think parking in a garage would save your chassis from rust, but if the under-carriage is coated with even a thin layer of salt and ice, you could be in trouble. Leave your car in the driveway, out of the relative heat and humidity of the garage. Chemical reactions slow down as the temperature drops. That is why your battery doesn't work when it's 5 below zero. By letting the salty ice stay frozen, you are, in effect, suspending the rusting process until you can clean the car.</P></BLOCKQUOTE>");
var tip020 = new tip("Does an Occasional Tank of Premium Help Keep a Car's Motor Clean?","As strange as this question sounds, this is a common and long-standing practice among many motorists who consider an occasional tank of premium a special treatment that will help their engines last longer.","<P>As strange as this question sounds, this is a common and long-standing practice among many motorists who consider an occasional tank of premium a special treatment that will help their engines last longer.</P><P>The basis for this assumption is that a tank of higher octane gasoline, maybe because it costs more, will somehow reduce engine wear. The assumption is fundamentally incorrect, though an occasional tank of premium may help an engine in other ways.</P><P>An engine's design, which includes such factors as its combustion ratio and its operating temperature, is related to something called an octane rating. Usually, we think of an octane rating as something that applies only to gasoline, but the engine itself has such a rating that represents the minimum octane level that the engine requires for proper operation.</P><P>An engine needs a minimum level of octane to avoid ping, which is caused by uncontrolled combustion of fuel inside the cylinders. Excessive ping can severely damage the engine. The octane rating on the gasoline is a measure of its anti-knock or anti-ping properties.</P><P>If your car does not ping on regular, then there is no reason to seek a higher-octane gasoline. The anti-knock level of the regular in this case is adequate for the engine.</P><P>But as a car gets older, depending on how the car has been driven and cared for, it may need a higher-octane gasoline anytime between four and six years. That's because carbon deposits inside the cylinders raise the combustion ratio, which in turn raises the engine's octane rating. You may notice that your car operated fine on regular fuel when it was new, but pings on regular as it gets older. So, the higher-octane fuel is not something to pamper a new car with but rather help keep an older car running properly.</P><P>In addition, premium gasoline has some other selling points. Most premium gasolines have a higher-quality additive package put in at the refinery. The actual additives in a particular brand of gasoline are generally not disclosed by refiners. But usually they include detergents and other solvents that keep the carburetor and rest of the fuel system clean.</P>");
var tip021 = new tip("Frequently Asked Questions About Cleaning Your Car","Q: What is better, paste or liquid wax? A: Providing you are using quality products, both pastes and liquid wax do an equally good job protecting your car's finish.","<P><STRONG>Q: What is better, paste or liquid wax?</STRONG></P><P>A: Providing you are using quality products, both pastes and liquid wax do an equally good job protecting your car's finish. Today's canned pastes go on much easier than the cake waxes of the past. While a liquid wax is easier to apply, you will not waste as much wax when using a paste and thus may find it more economical.</P><P><STRONG>Q: My new car has clearcoat and a protective sealer, how long should I wait to wax my car?</STRONG></P><P>A: First, it should be noted that clearcoat is not a sealer, but a clear layer of paint that is applied at the factory. The clearcoat layer is what gives the paint a deep, rich shine. Any penetration of the clearcoat will lead to the demise of the paint below. Even color sanding will not save a car's finish at this point.</P><P>The protective sealer is something entirely different. The best type of sealer is a polymer sealant, which have the ability to keep the finish on the car looking new for months on end. Unfortunately, there are so many brands of varying quality that unless you really know your product, there is no way of knowing how long your sealant will last. It is still wise to polish and wax your car on a regular basis, probably beginning about one month after purchase.</P><P><STRONG>Q: I have a black/dark color car that shows swirls in the paint. How do I get them out?</STRONG></P><P>A: It is important to understand where these swirls or \"spiderwebs\" come from and why they appear. As we mentioned before, cars with clearcoat have a clear layer of paint covering a layer of colored paint. This soft layer of clear paint is easily scratched by just every day wear and tear. Believe it or not, just the motion of your car's paint moving through the air at high speeds can cause spider webbing. If you use a coarse or abrasive rag to wash and/or dry your vehicle, any tiny grit or dirt that gets between the cloth and the clearcoat acts like a diamond cutting glass.</P><P>You can remove most of the swirls, spiderwebbing and scratches from the clearcoat, and you can vastly improve the appearance of your paint. To do so, you will need to use a quality polish first, followed by a layer of wax. Since most defects do not run in a linear pattern, it is best to polish and wax in a circular motion. That way, the most defects are addressed at a variety of angles.</P><P><STRONG>Q: How do I stop brake dust from forming? How do I remove it from the wheels?</STRONG></P><P>A: Blackened wheels, especially the front wheels, are a common problem these days. Brake dust from the front disc brake pads flakes off and deposits on the wheel. In short time, those nice shiny wheels are black and sooty. Due to changes in their composition-the removal of asbestos to be specific-brake pads have become much softer and wear more easily. Many of today's wheels are clearcoated just like the car's paint. Brake dust is a corrosive agent and if left untouched will eventually eat through the clearcoat and cause pitting to the wheel. There are a few things you can do to combat the problem First, clean your wheels thoroughly as often as you can, at least every time you wash your car. Another option is to have brake dust shields installed. Most dealers and brake shops carry these devices. A brake shield consists of a large black plate that fits between the front brake and the wheel creating a barrier that stops dust from reaching the wheels. Some dust does still get through, but dust shields can significantly reduce the problem. The last option is to replace the brake pads themselves with an aftermarket pad specifically designed not to dust. These pads are harder than your cars stock pads, and while not common, they may cause the rotors to warp. You should check with our mechanic before choosing this option. One of the better names in aftermarket pads is Mintex.</P><P><STRONG>Q: What should I use to clean interior cloth, leather and carpets?</STRONG></P><P>A: There are a variety of professional products specifically designed for cleaning interiors. If you purchase one of these products, be sure to read and follow the directions to the letter. Always test a small sample of the carpet or cloth to be sure it does not run or discolor. Leather interiors also require special care. You need to use a good leather cleaner (not soap and water) and a leather protector or sealer to keep the leather from cracking and splitting. Leather's worst enemy is the sun, you can do a lot to preserve your car's interior by using sunshades and car covers.</P><P><STRONG>Q: What is the best way to wash and dry a car?</STRONG></P><P>A: First, begin with assembling your washing gear. You will need a soft terry cloth towel or washing mitt, a large bucket, a good car washing soap. Do not use dishwashing detergent as soap or you risk stripping off your wax layer. It is best not to wash your car in direct sunlight; try to wash it early in the morning or later in the evening when the sun is not overhead. Fill your bucket with warm to mildly hot water. Be sure to follow the directions on the soap bottle, generally you need only a capful or two per gallon of water. Too much soap in the mix will leave a residue film on the car's finish as the water evaporates. Spray the car down, be sure to get it good and wet. Begin by washing from the top down. Wash one section at a time and then rinse. This will prevent the soap from drying on the paint. Keep the car wet, occasionally spraying the areas you have already washed to keep them wet. Once you've washed the entire vehicle, remove the spray nozzle from the hose and allow the water to gently flood the surface. This method will cause the water to \"sheet off\" removing most of the water drops and greatly speeding your drying of the vehicle. When finished, use soft terry cloth towels to dry the vehicle. There's also a new type of cleaning fabric on the market that is great for drying a car's finish. It is called the micro-fiber, scratch-free cloth and is now available at most automotive retail stores. The wheels can be done last but take care not to spray water on the car itself. Make sure any wheel cleaner you purchase is appropriate for the wheel finish you have, and never spray a wheel cleaner on a hot wheel, or leave it on longer than the manufacturer's recommendation. Use a wheel brush or toothbrush to clean brake dust from wheels.</P><P><STRONG>Q: How do I keep my convertible top in good shape?</STRONG></P><P>A: The best advice when it comes to convertible tops is maintenance. No matter how good your top is, it is still made of fabric. Keeping your car garaged or covered will help keep the elements from aging your car's top. When cleaning your convertible, soap and water are still the best choice to use. If you have dark spots or grease on the top, a soft-bristle brush can be used to lift the stains out. There are various products on the market for cleaning and more importantly, protecting your top. You should check with your dealership to see what the manufacturer recommends. Some names in convertible care products include Ragg Top, Mothers, Plexus and Tequipment.</P><P><STRONG>Q: What is a good product for cleaning the windows?</STRONG></P><P>A: Generally, the best product for cleaning glass is ammonia free glass cleaner. Glass cleaner with ammonia is most harmful to windows with aftermarket tint; it can actually strip the tint away from the window.</P><P><STRONG>Q: What about pollution, tree sap, bird droppings and their effect on a car's finish?</STRONG></P><P>A: All these contaminants can ruin your car's finish. The acids and corrosive chemicals they contain will eat into the clearcoat if not removed immediately. If you are faced with this situation already, a clay bar can help you remove contaminants and marks from the clearcoat. </P>");
var tip022 = new tip("Choosing Your Teen's First Car","So what's a parent to do when the time comes for a teenage son or daughter to get the keys to his or her own car?","<P>Bigger car or more safety features? Experts weigh in.</P><P>Sad but true: Motor vehicle crashes are the No. 1 cause of death among Americans aged 15-20. In addition to the teenage drivers who are killed, 64 percent of the 13-19 year-olds who die as passengers are killed while a teen driver is at the wheel.</P><P>So what's a parent to do when the time comes for a teenage son or daughter to get the keys to his or her own car? Locking that son or daughter in their room until they turn 21 is not an option, but there are steps a parent can take to make sure teenagers are as safe as possible on the road.</P><P>The conventional wisdom has been to find a big, if ancient, American car, one of those so-called Detroit land yachts that provides a thick cocoon of sheet metal around your child. But maybe what you really need is a secondhand Volvo; they always had a reputation for being safe, didn't they? Or what about a sport-utility vehicle?</P><P>But don't those really sound like vehicles more suited to a demolition derby than a high school parking lot? Isn't it more important to put your son or daughter in a vehicle they'll be proud to drive, especially one equipped with such modern safety features as anti-lock brakes and airbags?</P><P>They all sound like valid questions and could lead to good answers. So what's a parent to do? Cut through the clutter as highway safety experts examine three key questions.</P><BLOCKQUOTE><P><STRONG>Does Size Matter?</STRONG></P><P>\"The heavier the vehicle the better,\" says Michael Smith, a research psychologist who works in traffic safety programs for the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. \"This is a physics lesson: When two things run into each other, the heaviest wins.\"</P><P>\"Size matters absolutely,\" adds a manager of auto purchasing services for the Automobile Club of Southern California. \"It's a big issue, especially when you get on a freeway. Get into a small, two-door car and pull up next to a sport-utility vehicle. The bumpers just don't match. The higher you sit on the freeway, the more the chassis and frame are going to absorb the impact.</P><P>\"Kids think they're indestructible, so parents have to do it (provide protection) for them,\" he adds. \"Parents ought to be trying to protect the lives of their kids.\"</P><P><STRONG>New or Used?</STRONG></P><P>Most parents buy used vehicles for their teenagers. The parents already are buying their cars on payments, so they decide to look at used cars. Besides, the insurance premium on a new car primarily driven by a teenager \"is exorbitant.\"</P><P>Don't forget to check the tires, headlight and taillights, and to make sure safety equipment is in good working order. \"Make sure you have the proper tire pressures and that the turn signals work properly.</P><P>According to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, \"Teenagers should drive vehicles that reduce their chances of a crash and offer state-of-the-art protection in case they do crash.\"</P><P>Based on the IIHS guidelines and crash test results, late model cars that parents should consider include the Toyota Camry, Honda Accord, Volkswagen Passat, Subaru Legacy, and Chevrolet Lumina, as well as others of similar size that come with modern safety equipment and have scored well in crash-test ratings.</P><P>Like the IIHS, NHTSA does crash testing, and has those results, as well as a 23-page \"Buying a Safer Car\" brochure, at <A href=\"http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov\">www.nhtsa.dot.gov</A>.</P><P><STRONG>Car or Driver?</STRONG></P><P>Regardless of the vehicle, safety experts agree that the most important factor is the proper training of the driver.</P><P>\"What the person does behind the wheel is more important than the vehicle specifically,\" says NHTSA's Smith.\" What we recommend for young people is graduated licensing and that they're adequately prepared.\"</P><P>In states without graduated licensing, Smith recommends that parents create their own program. Under a graduated system, a young driver must demonstrate responsible behavior and meet experience requirements in various road conditions before advancing from a learner's permit to a provisional license and finally to a full license.</P><P>\"Driving is very difficult,\" he reminds. \"We take it for granted because we've been driving for a number of years, but it's a complicated, lengthy learning process. Insurance rates for young people do not come down until age 25. Until that age, a young person is over represented in crashes. They have not learned to be a good driver.\"</P><P>According to a joint statement by the IIHS and NHTSA, teenagers have the highest involvement rates in all types of crashes per-mile-traveled. The problem is worst among the youngest drivers, 16-year-olds who combine immaturity with inexperience. In fatal crashes involving 17 to 19-year-old drivers, driver error is a factor in 75 percent of crashes and speeding is a factor in 31 percent. But among 16 year olds, those figures are 80 percent and 36 percent, respectively. In addition, 41 percent of fatal accidents involving 16-year-old drivers are single-vehicle mishaps.</P><P>\"We recommend a night-time curfew, zero alcohol involvement, and that the parent use a contract or something similar, writing up the driving <I>privileges</I> of the young person-when, where, with whom.</P><P>\"The key to the whole program working is the adult involvement. They've raised someone for 16 years, but they're not done yet. There's a greater chance they're going to lose this young person to an automobile accident in the next couple of years than to anything before.\"</P><P>One way to improve the odds for your child is a specialized teenage driving skills program. There are several relatively inexpensive (around $300) one-day programs that teach accident avoidance skills to young drivers.</P><P>\"The vehicle is like a weapon. We talk about guns and knives, but that vehicle, if you drive it recklessly, is worse than a handgun. It can be the most deadly thing you have.\"</P></BLOCKQUOTE>");
var tip023 = new tip("10 Things You Should Keep in the Car","Car makers designed glove compartments to carry useful things, particularly for emergencies. Here are 10 items that could help get you out a of jam.","<P>Car makers designed glove compartments to carry useful things, particularly for emergencies. Here are 10 items that could help get you out a of jam.</P><OL><LI><STRONG>Tire puncture sealant:</STRONG><BR>Some people consider these things a joke, but they do work well on tires that go flat from simple punctures. A can of sealant may very well get you off a dangerous freeway shoulder in a jiffy. Look for a big can with a screw-type connector valve. </LI><LI><STRONG>A $5 bill:</STRONG><BR>It will save your pride on a day when your wallet contains no cash. </LI><LI><STRONG>Lug wrench:</STRONG><BR>A spare tire won't do much good if you can't get the lug nuts off the flat tire. But the lug wrenches that come with many cars aren't big enough. Carry a full-sized wrench, sold at most discount stores or auto parts stores. </LI><LI><STRONG>Spare key:</STRONG><BR>Even geniuses sometimes lock their keys in their car or lose them. Instead of humiliating yourself by admitting to the act, buy one of those nifty magnetic key cases that hides a spare key under the car. </LI><LI><STRONG>Jumper cables:</STRONG><BR>It's amazing how often you will actually use or loan out these cables. They can be a lot quicker and cheaper than calling a tow truck. Be sure you buy a pair of high-capacity cables long enough for awkward situations. </LI><LI><STRONG>Flashlight:</STRONG><BR>These devices can help quite a bit in emergencies. </LI><LI><STRONG>Tire gauge:</STRONG><BR>At $100 a pop, good tires are worth caring for. You ought not rely on the gauges on service station air pumps. If you have a gauge, it's easy to accurately check your tires in the morning before driving causes the pressure to increase. </LI><LI><STRONG>Candy bars:</STRONG><BR>A few chocolate bars are useful if you get stranded some day or have to hike home 25 miles after an earthquake. The same goes for a quart of water. Also, in the category of the big hike, you ought to carry a pair of boots and an extra sweater. </LI><LI><STRONG>First aid kit</STRONG> </LI><LI><STRONG>Miscellaneous for the serious-minded:</STRONG><BR>Disposable cigarette lighter, work gloves, rags, screw drivers, pliers, a few feet of electrical wire and duct tape. </LI></OL>");
var tip024 = new tip("How to Use Less Fuel","Tips and tricks for how you can stretch that tank of gas just a little further.","<p>What affects how much fuel your vehicle uses.</p><ul><li>The type of vehicle.</li><li>Miles driven.</li><li>Your driving habits.</li><li>Condition of vehicle - some things you can change, some you can not.</li><li>Fuel.</li><li>Weather.</li></ul><p><strong>Some tips for improving m.p.g. or using less fuel:</strong></p><p>Start by keeping a log of your fuel used, including miles per gallon. The benefits of a log include:</p><ul><li>Objectively see the effect of changes in:	<ul>	<li>Fuel type (Unleaded, UL+, Premium, Ethanol blend)</li>	<li>Fuel from different stations</li>	<li>Driving style changes (speed, acceleration, using air conditioning)</li>	<li>Maintenance performed on car</li>	</ul></li><li>It is a way to tell when something is not working properly on your vehicle - from a drop in fuel efficiency.</li><li>Check Gas Stations. Some news stories have covered stations which overstate the amount of fuel delivered as displayed on the pump.</li><li>Without a record of fuel consumed, it can be difficult to tell the effects of changes made, especially considering the accuracy and resolution of a typical automotive fuel gage.</li></ul><p><strong>The Factors That Effect Your Fuel Economy</strong></p><ol><li><strong>Vehicle Type</strong>	<ul><li>Normally the biggest factor in gas mileage. If you are buying a new vehicle, you can check the EPA numbers, or magazines such as Consumer Reports for mileage ratings. Some cars can be ordered with a digital miles per gallon display - shows the MPG as you drive. It can be a great tool to learn techniques for improving fuel economy.</li></ul></li><li><strong>Miles Driven</strong>	<ul><li>As the old tip went, plan and combine trips to the stores.</li></ul></li><li><strong>Driving Habits</strong>	<ul>	<li>Watching the digital miles per gallon display on a car so equipped can be informative and impressive. Accelerating a little slower, removing the foot from the gas pedal a little sooner before a stop sign or stop light can make a big difference. After some practice, some Auto Tips visitors have reported 20% or better improvements by paying careful attention to these habits. Increased speed increases wind resistance, and lowers fuel economy.</li>	<li>Probably the easiest and quickest way for most people to improve their gas mileage.		<ul>		<li>One visitor said they imagine they have an egg between their foot and the gas pedal to keep their acceleration light.</li>		<li>A car's inertia will often take it farther with a light foot on the pedal than we often realize when approaching a stop sign or light. Some practice with letting up a bit earlier on the pedal to anticipate lights can help efficiency.</li>		<li>Always keep safety in mind when experimenting with driving habits, not to impede traffic, etc</li>		</ul>	</li>	<li>Air Conditioning - The results may be mixed. A/C increases drag on the engine, and tends to lower mileage. When traveling on the highway, this drag may or may not be less than the wind drag from open windows.</li>	</ul></li><li><strong>Condition of Vehicle</strong>	<ul>	<li>Some vehicles have overdrive, or a Power / Economy switch for the automatic transmission. This can be switched by the driver normally. Overdrive or Economy settings are used to improve economy.</li>	<li>Wear / maintenance items under the hood and around the vehicle.		<ul>		<li>Fuel injectors: These can become plugged, normally accompanied by rough idle or poor acceleration. Use good fuels, an approved fuel injector cleaner, or professional cleaning by a shop.</li>		<li>Sticking Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. Normally not an easy job to replace or clean. Some shops have a system that connects that connects to the engine and injects a detergent that cleans both the fuel injectors, and may help clean sticking EGR valves.</li>		<li>Spark Plugs and Plug Wires - both routine maintenance items.</li>		<li>Vacuum Lines and grommets- can become stiff, brittle and leak vacuum. &nbsp;Check lines especially where they connect to engine or accessories for snug fit. &nbsp;Check grommets around things like the PCV valve, vacuum hoses around connections to engine, fuel pressure regulator, cruise control, power brakes, and on some cars, the vacuum operated heating / air conditioning air doors. Handle hoses with care.</li>		<li>Sensor Problems: These feed the car computer information on temperatures, engine state, etc.</li>		<li>Air/Fuel filter dirty: Inspect air filter, change as needed. Change fuel filter per manufacturers recommendation.</li>		<li>Thermostat - they can fail open or closed. If they fail open, engine does not heat up to proper temperature, and engine mixture runs rich.</li>		<li>Oil - keeping it changed at regular intervals reduces engine wear on internal engine components. As engines wear, they loose compression, and then efficiency.</li>		<li>Tire inflation - check owner's manual, or sticker on door frame for proper inflation. Under inflated tires increase rolling resistance, and decrease mileage.</li>		</ul>	</li>	</ul></li><li><strong>Type of Fuel </strong>	<ul>	<li>Your owner's manual should state a minimum octane rating for your vehicle. Depending on the part of the country you live in, 87 is a typical rating for the lowest grade of Unleaded.	Higher Octane than what your owner's manual calls for may or may not help mileage. You can experiment.</li>	<li>The author has experimented, and on several cars found fuels blended with Ethanol to give 10% to 20% highway mileage improvement, depending on the vehicle. It may or may not improve for your vehicle. It is also no longer required for the gas station to list ethanol content on the gas pumps, so it can be difficult to tell if the gas contains it or not. &nbsp;It has been the author's experience that fuel systems in vehicles where ethanol was used tend to stay very clean. </li>	<li>You can experiment with different brands of fuel.</li>	</ul></li><li><strong>Weather</strong>	<ul>	<li>In cold winter months, cars tend to get poorer mileage.		<ul>		<li>The engine runs richer until it warms up.</li>		<li>Headlights can be on for longer periods of time, the alternator has to make up the load, which puts additional drag on the engine.</li>		<li>On many cars, when the defroster is on, the air conditioner runs to remove humidity from the air.</li>		</ul>	</li>	<li>Summer time can also drop.		<ul>		<li>If the air conditioner is used a lot, it puts additional load on the engine.</li>		<li>At highway speeds, it is offset somewhat by reduced air drag on the vehicle by having windows closed</li>		</ul>	</li>	</ul></li></ol>");
var tip025 = new tip("Traveling with Kids","Whether you've planned a 5 hour trip or a 25 hour trip, traveling with kids can make you need a vacation after your vacation. Your best bet is some careful planning, patience and an economy size jar of headache medicine.","<p>Whether you've planned a 5 hour trip or a 25 hour trip, traveling with kids can make you need a vacation after your vacation.  Your best bet is some careful planning, patience and an economy size jar of headache medicine.</p><p>Traveling with Kids:</p><ol><p><li>Play games in the car.  Some suggestions:<ul><li>I Spy: an old favorite </li><li>The License Plate Game: variations include finding out-of-state plates, who can add the numbers fastest? look for vanity plates</li><li>Storytelling: take turns telling parts of a story starting off with once upon a time through to the end </li><li>Keep on Track: Have older kids follow the map with you and assist in direction giving </li></ul></li></p><p><li>Snacks. Water is a must, it is easy to clean up and is much better for the body than soda.  Bring your children's favorite snacks to avoid too many trips to the convenience stores.</li></p><p><li>Schedule quiet time.  Everyone will enjoy their time in the car a little more if quiet time is enforced.</li></p><p><li>Visit the dollar store before you go and stock up on small inexpensive toys to dole out at times when the children are beginning to grow impatient.</li></p><p><li>Make frequent stops where the children can get out and stretch their legs.  Let them run around at a rest area to get some of their energy out.</li></p></ol>");
var tip026 = new tip("Traveling with Pets","You've decided to bring your four-legged friend with you on your trip to the Grand Canyon - so here's a list of everything to do for Fido before you hit the road and while in the car.","<p>You've decided to bring your four-legged friend with you on your trip to the Grand Canyon - so here's a list of everything to do for Fido before you hit the road and while in the car.</p> <p>Traveling with Pets:</p><ol><p><li>Check up. Bring Fido to the vet for a complete check up before you go.  Make sure to get a list of all shots, including rabies, as some motels require it before check in.</li></p><p><li>Identification. Make sure Fido has a tag with his name, address and phone number in case he gets lost on the road.</li></p><p><li>Start small. Take Fido on a few short trips to ensure that he is capable of enduring the long ride.</li></p><p><li>Get a list of hotels that allow pets and plan your itinerary accordingly.</li></p><p><li>Considering crating your pet.  As it is not safe for a child to bounce around in the back, your pet should not either.  Fido is safer if kept contained in a crate.  You will also be a safer driver if Fido is not trying to show his love for you on the highway.</li></p><p><li>Frequent stops... need we say more?</li></p></ol>");